Calvi
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Calvi

Jump to: Wine of Calvi, History and legends of Calvi,

including Ledionnaires, Cristopher Cloumbus, Liberty of London and Nelson

Calvi is situated in the north west coast of Corsica and is the closest point with mainland France, 175 km and it is often compared with St Tropez in France. Princess Diana was a fan of this city and numbers or celebrities stop in this fascinating place.

Nestled on the island of Corsica, west of Italy and south of France, the port town of Calvi boasts the intrigue of traditional Corsican culture while effortlessly maintaining the comforts of a modern resort area. Picturesque views of nature’s scenic beauty are seemingly everywhere you turn, and there are many enjoyable places to spend time.

Travelling to Calvi by ferry will allow you to get the full effect of the gorgeous port, the towering Citadel, the rugged mountains, and the forest of pines. If you do not arrive by ferry, you can still see the splendour of the area from the water by taking one of the many boat trips or pleasure cruises available in the marina. The Port de Plaisance is a friendly marina, and an enjoyable place to view the many luxury boats and bright fishing boats as they arrive and depart.

Calvi’s local beach is a long, narrow strip of white sand and serene, shallow water that stretches nearly 6 km (4 mi) along the length of the bay. It offers lifeguards and very good facilities, such as picnic areas and snack bars. Popular activities at this site include windsurfing, waterskiing, jet skiing and paragliding. For those who prefer a quieter place to soak in the sun, a less populated and wider strip of beach can be found at plage de l’Alga, near Revellata point.

While in Calvi, most social activity will take place at Quai Landry. This is a beachside walkway, which connects the port to the marina, and offers restaurants, bars, cafés, side shops, and hotels. There are not many historical points of interest for sightseeing in this area, but it is an excellent place to shop or grab a bite to eat.

The Citadel is the main part of town. It was a military outpost in the 15th century that helped guard the city against international attacks. It sits high above the port, towering over the sea. There are many brick walls, tunnels, and long, winding stairways in this area, as well as plenty of narrow walkways tucked between quaint old houses.

Places of interest in the Citadel include the restored palace of the Genovese governor, and the remains of a house that is rumoured to be the place where Christopher Columbus was born. The original building was generally destroyed by Nelson’s troops in 1794, and today, a statue stands on the site, commemorating the 500th anniversary of Columbus’ birthday. The Museum of Corsican Ethnography is located in the Citadel, and holds many items in connection with the history and culture of the beautiful island. This is a recommended tourist destination, along with the military museum.

The Citadel also holds the Cathédrale St-Jean-Baptiste, which was erected to hold an allegedly supernatural crucifix called Christ des Miracles. Wandering around the cobblestone streets and shops in the Citadel is a lovely way to spend an afternoon or quiet evening. Additionally, a jazz festival is held in this area every June.

One enjoyable walk from Calvi is up the hill to the church of Madonna della Serra, for more splendid views.

Corsica boat trips to Scandola Natural Reserve leave from Calvi.

The Citadel is worth at least one visit. It is very hard work, especially during the 12-3pm period, with many steps and seemingly unendless cobbles, but there are some restaurants and shops to ease you and an art gallery halfway up. It is hard to recommend the citadel for its contents (though the 2nd Bn. Parachutistes of the Foreign Legion put on a show every year, discussed below, which is worth going to), but the views are simply amazing, especially at sunset.

Come during the 15 Août, and you will be treated with the best fireworks show you have ever seen. Go to the main beach and you will see the show proper; each year has its own theme. We went in 2006 and saw the 'Apocalypse' themed show, which included fireworks evoking fire, brimstone (we were hit on the head numerous times by falling caps--not a great idea to sit on the street directly beneath it) and volcanic eruptions accompanied by loud, germanic classical music and an accompanying video projected onto its largest wall. In the daytime, the Parachutistes put on a show and do a jump from 15,000ft, landing in the sea. Best viewed from the bar U Cornu Marinu, if only under the pretense of avoiding flying boots.

L'Eglise Santa Maria is worth a visit; you can't miss it, it's the 'Big Pink Church'. It is a lovely old-style Catholic church evocative of the Orthodox style.

Read also this very interesting article about Calvi, Corsica: My kind of town

With its lofty citadel, superb cuisine and five-mile beach, the Corsican town of Calvi is well worth a visit, says Martin Buckley.

Link : http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/europe/france/2823767/Calvi-Corsica-My-kind-of-town.html

The main beach in Calvi has something for everyone. It shelves very gently so it's perfect for children, and there is a wide range of watersports on offer. There are also several restaurants where sun beds can be hired. There are many access points to the beach from the Port de Plaisance heading out of the town in the direction of Ile Rousse. If you are visiting from another area, go straight over the roundabout where the airport is signposted and then turn right where you see the signs for 'La Plage' / 'La Pinede'. If you miss this turning, continue to the next roundabout and turn right.

Don’t miss  the Jazz Festival in June, Church of Notre Dame de la Serra, Cirque de Bonifato, Cathedrale Jean-BapThere.

Get out : I recommend you the little train, There is a red train that runs several times daily to Île Rousse, also running by the beach at Calvi and affording wonderful views. Be careful which carriage you choose to sit in--the smaller one has windows that do not open properly and it gets incredibly hot in there. There is also a blue-and-white train to Bastia which appears to be fairly regular

Wine degustation in the Calvi and Balagna, area :

Domaine de la Figarella - one of our favourites, follow the road towards the airport and turn right about 2km before you reach the airport. Offers a good selection and they are happy to let you taste.

Domaine d'Alzipratu - Follow the road towards Calenzana and the Domaine is on the left just past the village in the direction of Zilia. Very good red and rose.

Domaine Orsini - Follow the road towards Calenzana and the Domaine is on the right before you reach the village (you will see the signs). Good selection of wines, aperitifs and local produce such as jams, sweets etc.

Domaine Renucci - Next to the Hotel Mare e Monti in Feliceto. Follow the D71 and you will see the hotel as you pass through the village. A lovely rose and good reds

Eating in Calvi: U Casanu, 18 Boulevard Wilson, serves authentic Corsican food and is run by a couple seemingly out of their front room; friendly service and a cosy feel only make it better. Try the Stufatu as a main course and Fiadone for dessert (but be careful how much eau de vie you put on!). Prices are quite reasonable. Remember to book ahead, as its small size and popularity ensure that walking in and finding a place is not likely.

Café L'Orient, also on the Marina, and distinguishable by its yellow parasols, is excellent for a pre-beach lunch. Super-friendly service and banter from the two young waiters is guaranteed, and a great selection of cheap (for Calvi, at least) food and drink (including 1664 en pression) is served. The low-down seats are very comfy and the view over the marina is great; especially recommended are the Milkshakes (deux boules de choix) and the Croc Monsieurs ('crocs' for short). If green is your thing, the salads are also superb. L'Orient is also a cybercafe, so you can either go inside and buy some time on the 8 computers or bring your laptop for Wi-Fi access.

Via Marina, on the Rue Artisanat--the road running parallel to the marina, which you can reach by mounting the great staircase beside Café L'Orient, and find Via Marina to your left--serves fantastic italian food, including an extensive pasta menu and good pizzas. Try the lasagnes a la bolognaise, which is fantastic. Pizzas are OK, but nothing to write home about; desserts are simply gorgeous. Prices here are reasonable, as it appears to be somewhat forgotten due to its proximity to the marina, however arguably this location is much better due to the extensive people-watching and shelter from the wind. Probably not a good idea for those who would be peturbed by people walking right past them eating, unless you are a couple, in which case you can sit on the balcony overlooking the marina.

U Pescadore, Place Bel'Ombra, beside the three-star Hotel St. Christophe (but attached to the Christophe Colomb, **), offers fantastic seafood and a great location with lovely atmosphere both at night and at breakfast. The view of the citadel and sound of the sea are very relaxing, without being too exposed to the wind. This place is favoured by the locals--always a good sign--who you will see playing pétanques on the sand that surrounds the restaurant. Make sure to play with Pescadore's daft dog, Benjamin (Benj), who is a bit of a minor celebrity due to his wanton road-crossing. He likes playing with pebbles, so throw one for him if you find one.

Cappucino on the Marina is an efficient pizzeria distinguishable by its brown parasols. The dark parasols give it a lovely coolness in the evening, and the food is not bad (though asking for the dessert menu for the first time often results in somewhat bewildered faces). The pizza sauce found on every table is probably the best in Calvi. Service is efficient and delivered by very French shirt-and-tie waiters, most of whom look like ex-legionnaires, though not particularly friendly, as such. Enjoys a very healthy reputation with the 'boat people', who are easily distinguishable. You are likely to encounter poseurs here, though aside from its classiness and position, its reputation is somewhat befuddling.

History of the city and legend :

LEGIONNAIRES

Since 1962, Calvi has been home to the only airborne parachute base of the French Foreign Legion. Formed in 1831, the legion is famous for offering anonymity to its recruits. This is still true today, when during their first year of service legionnaires are given a false name, and there is an unwritten law that no questions are asked about their past.

The 2e Regiment Etranger de Parachutistes based in Calvi are allegedly the legion's elite force - picked from the cream of the recruits. The legion units were transferred to Corsica at the end of the Algerian war because the island offers ideal conditions for tough training & conditioning. Each year on 30th April the immaculately dressed legionnaires from Camp Raffali parade through the town to celebrate 'Camerone Day' commemorating a battle that bizarrely was one of the worst defeats in French Military History!

CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS

Most Corsicans believe that Christopher Columbus was born in the Citadelle in Calvi during the Genoese occupation of Corsica. However, this fact is hotly disputed by the Genoese. Believers claim that the Genoese deliberately burned the town archives in 1580 in order to cover up the truth. The house that allegedly belonged to his parents and where it was said that he was born was destroyed by Nelson's army during the siege of 1794, but today bears a memorial plaque attesting to it's grandiose history.

LIBERTY OF LONDON

In 1400 the hot headed Bayon Baglioni is said to have saved Calvi from a treacherous duo who planned to hand it over to the Aragonese. As he stabbed the traitors he screamed Libertà, Libertà which became part of the family name and by a circuitous line of descent, the name of one of London's most famous shops; Liberty.

ADMIRAL NELSON

In 1794 Pascal Paoli enlisted the help of the English navy and Admiral Nelson to fight against the French who had taken over several main towns including Calvi, Bastia and St Florent. There was a fierce battle that lasted several weeks during which Nelson was reported to have said that he 'never wanted to see Calvi again'. His wish was to come true as during fighting on the 40th day, shrapnel from one of his own men hit him in the face and he lost his right eye. In the same year Corsica was declared part of the British Empire, however, this was to be a short lived affair as after just two years the British left under pressure from the French.

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